Ask a doctor: Will red light therapy clear up my acne?

Red light therapy masks look like something from the future. But just like we were promised hoverboards and other feats of technology come the 21st century, not everything may live up to expectations.

Before you spend hundreds of dollars on the “promise” of clear skin, make sure you know what you’re buying. Your skin will thank you later.

The quick answer

While red light therapy is a promising technology, dermatology experts say the research is not there yet to fully understand the effectiveness and best practices for at-home use.

You may notice some minor positive effects for things like acne, wrinkles or hair growth when used consistently and safely, but those are likely to go away if you fall off the routine. Additionally, there are safety concerns to consider, including thermal or retinal injury, skin irritation, hyperpigmentation, and increased complications for conditions like rosacea.

Take a deeper look

Red light as a tool for hair growth was discovered by accident decades ago when testing its role in cancer growth in rats. Like many other treatments that initially help with one thing, it’s since been applied to others, like acne and cold sore treatment, wrinkle reduction and wound care.

There are a multitude of red light thermal brushes, helmets, masks and other devices available, ranging from $30 to thousands of dollars. Experts warn that these devices are unregulated and lack set guidelines or best practices for their use (FDA approval is given on baseline safety, not efficacy).

You must be specific about how much light you’re exposing yourself to — too little won’t do anything, while too much could cause complications. There’s a sort of “Goldilocks” window for the right amount, which researchers and developers haven’t figured out yet. There’s also likely a placebo effect to take into account with some of these devices.

At this point, the majority of studies on red light use and effectiveness are small, meaning there’s not enough data to support widespread use. Large studies are costly, and it may be some time before investment by the medical community.

One area where red light therapy has seen significant positive results, however, is in treating acute radiation dermatitis — severe rashes from high-radiation chemotherapy. In those cases, though, you’d be doing it in a controlled setting with your oncology team.

Overall, experts recommend staying aware and educated about what products you’re using. If you want to invest in the tools, first consult your primary care provider and follow available safety guidelines.